Thursday 31 October 2013

Tabaski

On Wednesday 16th October, the Islamic population of Senegal celebrated Tabaski. In other parts of the world, this festival is known as Eid al-Adha and is, arguably, one of the most important in the Muslim calendar.  According to the Koran, Allah asks the prophet Ibrahim to show his devotion as a Muslim by sacrificing his most cherished son, Ismail.  Ibrahim agrees but, at the point at which he is about to kill his son, Allah intervenes.  The prophet’s willingness is satisfaction enough and so he is instead provided with a lamb to sacrifice.  In recognition of this, Muslims across the globe will kill halal domestic animals, such as sheep and goats, on the Tabaski day.

 From my own experience, it is a day purely devoted to feasting and family reunion.  Food preparation can start very early in the morning and will continue throughout the day.  In Senegal, Tabaski is a national holiday, allowing friends and relatives to travel from far and wide to spend the event together.  For some, it is the only time in the year when whole families will see each other.  In one neighbouring household, a man had come all the way from Haiti for the celebration.

 During the days leading up to Tabaski, it is common to see a large number of sheep tied up at the side of the road or outside houses.  Most families will have bought at least one to sacrifice.  The family with whom we celebrated the day was very large and so six sheep were killed there in total.  However, the Islamic faith teaches that one should only spend as much as he can afford.  It is perfectly acceptable for those without the means to purchase meat from the butcher instead.

 It would also appear that inclusion is an intrinsic part of the day.  For each sheep sacrificed, the meat will be split into thirds.  One third will be cooked and eaten by the family on the day of the feast.  Another will be put aside for the days and weeks afterwards and the final third will be given to those unable to afford their own sheep.  The Catholic contingency of Senegal also has the opportunity to share in the festivities.  Some will spend the day with a Muslim family whilst others will be the receivers of many cooked plates of food, provided by their Muslim friends.  Nobody is forgotten as the country prepares to party.

 And party it does indeed.  Of course.  On Tabaski day, everyone dresses in their finest clothing.  For the Senegalese, this means wearing their most elaborate boubous.  The hard work of the tailors, whose sewing machines can be heard clicking away ceaselessly as Tabaski approaches, can finally be enjoyed.  Men and women alike will be sporting outfits heavily decorated with embroidered patterns.  Children, too, will be shining in their bright and sometimes almost fluorescent fabrics.  There will be women with hair braided and threaded with beads; women with hijabs covered in sequins; clean-shaven men, wearing shoes which precisely match the colour of their clothing.  Houses with speakers blare out a mixture of modern and mbalax music.  Neighbours have no choice but to join in and dance.

 The continued cooking ensures that meal upon meal is consumed throughout the day.  It is normal that adults fast in the morning, while men and elders pray at the mosque.  However, once the sacrifice has taken place, every part of the animal will be grilled, fried, barbequed or boiled to create a great selection of dishes.  The sense of community that already exists at Senegalese meal times heightens as neighbours and friends bring their plates together.  Many large dishes will fill an area and, as all gather round, there can be as many as twenty or thirty people eating in the one place.  Tradition is observed: men and women eat separately and the right hand only is used.  No option of a knife and fork.

 Between meals, people visit neighbouring houses, asking for forgiveness.  The words ‘balma akk’ (Wolof for ‘forgive me of my sins’) will be repeated many times over the course of the day.  Wishes for good health and long life create a positive atmosphere.  There is a relaxed feeling, despite it being a time of much activity.  Children also make a similar sort of round, although theirs will entail a demand for sweets or bags of rice from everyone that they meet.  It is important that parents listen to the local radio station as some can wander great distances in search of their ‘Tabaski gifts’. 

 Kindness and generosity are almost certainly the words with which to define this special day.  Nothing can quite compare to the sensation of being included so readily and having the opportunity to share in such an important event with people who have now become as close as family.

 Fekay dewin you buri buri buri buri – May God let us share many many more future Tabaskis together!

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